Work to Live. Not Live To Work.

            We emerged from the underground metro station onto the busy streets of Barcelona in what seemed to be a rush of sirens, tour busses, taxis and tourists.  Rising seven stories directly in front of us was Casa Batlo, an apartment building that was built to tell the legend of St. Jordi the dragon slayer. Large colorful roof tiles resemble the scales of a dragon’s back, and the balconies and window frames resemble the skulls and bones of the dragon’s victims. The sight was overwhelming.

According to the city legend, Barcelona was founded by the Carthaginian Hamiclar Barca; the father of Hannibal. It became a Roman outpost in 220 BC, eclipsed in size and importance by Tarragona. (Tarragona is the birthplace of Romulus and Remus and Pontius Pilate.) Barcelona has transformed over two millennia into a vibrant modern city, with a rich cultural history, unique architecture, beaches, museums and mouth-watering food.

After checking into the hotel, we proceeded directly to Barcelona’s most famous street called Las Ramblas. Las Ramblas is a broad pedestrian boulevard that winds its way to the city port, passing city landmarks and pulsing with the activity of tens of thousands of people. La Boqueria is located on Las Ramblas and is considered to be one of the world’s great food markets. Being foodies, it was our second stop.  La Boqueria is a two-acre space that holds every conceivable type of food imaginable.  Colorful arrays of fruits and produce entice passersby from the street. We marveled at stalls selling octopus and squid, and dazzling display of ostrich eggs, and lit cases filled with pastries. In the middle of the market we found Nirvana.

The King of Spanish food is an extraordinary ham known as Jabugo, Ibérico, or pata negra.  The only way to describe it is ham-flavored butter; it melts in your mouth and tastes like heaven. Jabugo is cut to order in paper-thin slices, and is served with veneration.  We savored ours with a glass of Spanish Rioja (wine) and watched the market buzz with activity.

The next few days were spent exploring the city, including the Picasso museum, Parque Guell, and Sagrada Familia. We touched the column ruins of the ancient Roman temple in the Barri Gotic, the oldest part of the city. The Spaniards have a casual approach to life.  We learned to follow their example, lingering over dinner, strolling with a gelato, or stopping to watch the world go by from a park bench. We made ourselves slow down and take time to savor life, because of a simple event we witnessed in a restaurant a block from our hotel. 

A young Asian man, who spoke Catalan, seated us next to two smartly dressed women enjoying their dinner. After an awkward moment with the waiter, he returned with two new menus, one in English and the other in Castilian. The tapas we ordered were a feast for the senses. Fresh bread rubbed with garlic and tomatoes, plates filled with manchego cheese and membrillo jam, chicken croquettes, asparagus with mushrooms, garlic and shaved truffle, and of course, more Ibérico.

The women seated next to us became visibly upset with the waiter. They were seated at the next table, so we were able to hear them talking.  My partner explained that they had been to the movies and were discussing the film when the waiter appeared suddenly, and presented them with the check. “What are you doing rushing me and my friend along like this?” she said in a gruff tone, “This is where we relax. This is where we take our time.” The embarrassed waiter apologized and left, bill in hand. Although her words had to be translated for me, in her voice I heard what she was saying and I understood. She would not be hurried along, this was the time to unwind and enjoy life.

            Work to live. Not live to work. These two sentences changed our lives, and we adapted the philosophy, placing a higher value in the human experience. Slowing down to enjoy life, to really live in the world around us. To spend time with our friends, and take our time.  

Welcome to my new blog about food and travel.

The simple act of sharing a meal humanizes us in ways few other things are capable of doing, it can be a bonding experience that stays with us for a lifetime. We learn more about what we have in common over a shared meal than we will ever learn about our differences.

The cuisine in Spain is surprisingly diverse and is the reason I chose it for our first adventure together. The Spanish celebrate food year round; in almost every town and village there is a festival celebrating regional specialties. The choices are as diverse as freshly harvested spring onions grilled over an open fire in Catalonia, to just-caught barnacles, that are steamed in sea water and served beachside in December. La Tomatina is likely the most famous food festival in the world, not for eating, but for throwing tomatoes.

The traditional siesta has roots in gathering the family together for the midday meal. They also take pleasure in multiple course dinners, enjoying the company of friends over several hours. With the exception of breakfast, the Spanish never rush through any meal. The love of food and enjoyment of a meal is so ingrained into Spanish culture, that it is considered very rude if a restaurant were to present the bill before being asked. 

My first taste of Spanish food was in a café in the Barcelona airport a few years ago. I was weary from an overnight trip, and desperate for anything to eat. Considering that USAir does not serve anything resembling food; as evidenced by a suspicious-looking item placed in front of me that vaguely resembled a tan-colored Twinkie, or a possible reject from a defective easy bake oven.

I prayed the airport food would be a slight improvement over what was served on the flight, and to my complete surprise it was. The coffee served was a shot of dark-roast espresso topped with foam, called a café cortado. It was wonderful, and was accompanied by a flaky pastry, filled with crème patisserie, topped with fresh apricots. I went back to the counter and asked for another round of each. 

     In my next post, I will begin to explore Barcelona, Catalan food culture, and what sets Catalonia apart from the rest of Spain. For a preview, click the photo at left to visit La Boqueria, a market considered to be one of the best in the world.